Bucket List Part 5
–> Cold and rain at the Arctic Circle
–> A wild ride from Norway to Sweden
–> Breakdown with the Road Glide ST!
My adventure trip on the Road Glide ST to Norway is now coming to an end and I'm heading back south from the Lofoten Islands. My route goes from the Lofoten Islands via Narvik to the northernmost Harley-Davidson Dealer in North-Norway to Ballangen.
After that, I will continue directly towards Sweden, crossing the Arctic Circle once again. Before I set off, I will visit the quaint Best Western Hotel a good breakfast first, so that not only the Milwaukee-Eight with power in the morning. The hotel, from the Signature Collection, has also received a 5-star recommendation from me.
A good breakfast in the morning – refuel before the journey!
The journey from Lofoten to Narvik
Challenged by cold and rain: The return trip on the Road Glide ST 117
The return trip on the Road Glide ST 117 begins at the Best Western Signature Collection Hotel in Sandtorg, a picturesque corner of the Lofoten Islands. This journey, which is surely a dream for many motorcyclists, has turned into a small personal odyssey that takes me through the changing landscapes of Scandinavia and has really challenged me with low temperatures and heavy rain.
The rugged beauty of Lofoten in the rearview mirror
The Heavy Breather air filter on the ST sucks in air powerfully and unmistakably as we set off again. I am now leaving Lofoten, whose rugged beauty is reflected like a painting in my rearview mirror. My route winds along the Norwegian coast, past majestic mountains and deep fjords.
I drive through Norway City of Narvik, The port city used to be an important transport hub for iron ore from Sweden, which is why we Germans were already here in the 1940s.
Past Narvik harbor and over the Hålogaland Bridge
HåLogaland Bridge in Narvik
The Halogaland Bridge in Narvik, with a length of 1,533 meters and a span of 1,145 meters, is the second-longest suspension bridge in Norway. The bridges and tunnels in Norway are generally really impressive, but driving through tunnels can get really tiring after a while. Fortunately, there aren't too many of them in this region.
Chinese company commissioned to build Norway's second-longest suspension bridge
With the construction of the Halogaland Bridge, the 2013 and already in December 2018 you could drive over the bridge. The Norwegians commissioned a company from China to build the suspension bridge - they should probably have thought about that for BER too 😆 .
Off to the northernmost Harley-Davidson dealer in Ballangen
Passing the harbor and the large ships anchored there, my next mission is the northernmost Harley-Davidson authorized dealer in Ballangen. The town is located 40 kilometers west of Narvik, and the route there follows the E6 along the coast of the Ofotfjord, where the wind from the North Sea blows directly at me with considerable force, reminding me that I am traveling in the harsh and arctic conditions of northern Norway.
Stopping at the Harley-Davidson Nord-Norge dealer is a must for me—I think the back print on the dealer shirt is so cool. Obviously, I have more than just one; it's like an addiction 😎 . I just can't walk past the store without buying something...
Break at the H-D dealer: T-shirts and coffee
Here, surrounded by like-minded people, my passion for collecting T-shirts escalates and I add one, or two, or was it three very special and unique H-D Nord-Norge T-shirts to my collection.
I just can't help myself! Now I'm enjoying a much-needed coffee to warm myself up again. After a quick chat with the dealer, I have to get going. I still have a long way to go, and the weather doesn't look particularly good.
The rugged landscape captivates me
First, I'm drawn to the E6, one of the most beautiful roads in Europe, and I'm always fascinated by the unique surroundings, even when the weather isn't really cooperating. On this route, the YX Saltdal gas station, I always stop there when I pass by.
The landscape changes noticeably at the Arctic Circle.
This region is particularly impressive because about 50 kilometers further south, nature begins to change noticeably. This is the perfect time to pause and soak up the moment. On a tour like this, you should keep your eyes and ears open and enjoy nature from time to time.
If I were to continue driving on the E6 on the Norwegian side, it wouldn't be far to the Arctic Circle, where the Arctic Circle Center (Polarsirkelsenteret) On the Swedish side, there is no such center in this region.
The Arctic Circle Center is located in this region, but only on the Norwegian side.
Route 77 to Sweden turns out to be a challenge that brings home to me the untamed nature of this region. It is cold, wet, and there is still snow on the roadside even in July.
This time, my tour takes me back through Sweden, and I turn off shortly after the gas station to cross the Swedish border on the E77. I'm still above the Arctic Circle and decide to stop for a moment. I feel a tingling sensation that's hard to describe, but just a few kilometers further on, I reach the Arctic Circle border, and after that, everything changes again.
The moment I cross the Arctic Circle is surreal. Despite the lashing rain and stormy winds, I feel an indescribable euphoria. Route 95 to Sweden turns out to be a challenge that brings home to me the untamed nature of this region.
Stopover in Arjeplog, Sweden | The relentless rain and low temperatures of 7-8 degrees force me to make an unplanned stop in Arjeplog. The small, inviting hotel offers me a refuge from the stormy weather and a chance to gather my thoughts. Because now a problem catches up with me again that I thought I could solve with grease. My boots have, as already on North Cape Tour, once again soaked with water.
I definitely won't be wearing these boots on my longer tours. Cold fingers and cold feet are your enemies in these weather conditions. The problem needs to be solved urgently at home. I still have a Norwegian beer can in my luggage, which will be destroyed and then it's „off to the camp,“ as we say in northern Germany.
Rainy trip to Söderhamn – A detour through Sweden's nature
The trip to Söderhamn – The next morning, still accompanied by rain, I continue my journey. I had actually planned to make Stockholm my destination for the day, but that won't be possible in this weather. Above all, I need to find a hotel along the way that is still open during business hours, as not all hotels have a 24-hour reception. So I will be driving about 680 kilometers today.
My new destination for the day is Söderhamn. Unfortunately, the weather is expected to be very bad, but that's something you always have to expect. My thoughts are still on the sunny days in Lofoten, which were unusually beautiful. I decide to take the side roads so I can see more of the countryside, and anyway, you shouldn't drive fast in Sweden as it can be expensive.
The final stage through Sweden
Route 363, which is pleasant to drive on clear days, now presents itself as a foggy, mystical landscape. I had hoped to see a moose or two on my trip, but they seemed to be hiding in the woods.
Surprisingly, I encountered reindeer instead, which were actually traveling very far south in Sweden. Until then, I had assumed that they could only be found in the northern regions.
A fuel stop in Adak – On the road in the heart of Lapland
According to my app, there is a gas station on this route. My 22.7-liter tank is still a quarter full, so it's about time to fill it up again. There aren't that many gas stations on this route, and I'm once again traveling somewhere in the middle of nowhere.
I arrive in the tiny village of Adak, located in the province of Lapland. This tiny village has a whopping 123 inhabitants, a small shop, and a single gas pump in the center of the village. But that's all I need! I grab a quick coffee in the shop, which I take with me, and what do I see in the parking lot in front of the shop? An old Audi 80L. Wow, that thing is from the 70s, and they drive it here to go shopping.
Warming up in Lycksele – A gas station break with coffee
The rain has eased off and the road is drying up again, but it's terribly cold. The thermometer isn't even reaching 10 degrees, so the plan is to warm up at a gas station in the next big town, Lycksele. After another 110 kilometers, I reach Lycksele and even find a K-station gas station. That's perfect, because I still have the K-coffee mug from Dirk, who I stopped to visit near Lillehammer.
Coffee mug Misunderstanding at the Swedish gas station
I went straight to the gas station and headed for the coffee machine to fill up my coffee mug. I also needed to satisfy my hunger, so I placed an order for a small snack at the checkout. I didn't actually place the K-cup in the checkout area and only ordered something to eat. Now I got a lecture from the friendly Swedish woman at the checkout! I was no longer in Norway, but she would turn a blind eye this time.
Yes, that's the thing: you can only use the cup at Norwegian Circle K gas stations to refill your coffee for free. Of course, I didn't know that.
In any case, we immediately attracted attention at the gas station. There are certain differences between Norwegians and Swedes, as a few Swedish construction workers called out to me, and it's not just the different coffee mugs 8-). And just like that, we were in conversation. They were really nice guys from the „earthmoving business,“ as they themselves said. In other words, they were the excavator operators who were building the new road through the forest with their big CAT excavators and construction machines.
Secrets in the forest and the mystery of the old Harley
They told me about a novel set in this forest, where a strange, solitary man who didn't fit into society had once bought an old Harley to transport wood from the forest. The story sounded pretty creepy. The novel told of a highly unusual forest dweller, and afterwards I wondered what kind of Harley he might have bought.
The WLA was only produced from 1940 onwards, and the novel was set between 1920 and 1940. So it could, of course, have been a Flathead. He must have got hold of it somehow in Sweden without the internet we have today, so it was almost certainly something from the military.
The novel is based on a true story.
As I understand it, this true story is based on the cohesion of a family; the actual loner had apparently decided to live with his family in the forest. The Harley was probably a remnant from the war, which he used for his forestry work. I'm really interested in what really happened there; the story sounded a bit more curious than what has been suggested here. Unfortunately, the book is only available in Swedish. –> Link
We laughed a lot, but the great conversation doesn't really fit into my schedule. However, I think it's great when you meet new people from the countries you visit and chat with them somehow.
Through Sweden's forests to Sollefteå – A journey away from the big city
I continue along Route 365, which eventually merges into Route 90. I'm driving through the heart of beautiful Sweden, where there are lots of forests and hardly any towns to be seen. My next planned fuel stop is Sollefteå, which is about 230 kilometers away and will take me around three hours to reach.
Sollefteå is a small town where young people hang out near the gas station. It's no surprise that they drive old cars here too. When I was filling up, they were checking out an old American car. Young Swedes live differently; it feels like they have more gasoline than PlayStation in their blood.
From Timrå to Söderhamn – A wet and cold challenge
I continue on, driving another 100 kilometers across country to Timrå, and then a little faster on the E4 for 150 kilometers to my destination for the day, Söderhamn. On the E4, the bad weather returns. It is still cold, and now, unfortunately, it is getting damp around my nose again. I only booked the hotel shortly before reaching my destination, when I could estimate how far I would still be driving that day.
When I arrive in Söderhamn, I feel exhausted, but also deeply satisfied, as such an adventure always brings. The last 100 kilometers were really tough. It would have been better to continue riding the next day, at least as far as Copenhagen, but it was simply too cold and wet for such a ride. In cases like this, you have to know your limits.
The final sprint, with 1,000 kilometers to go today: From Söderhamn, my route takes me via Stockholm to Denmark. The weather doesn't look good again, but you get used to it. When you set off wearing your rain gear, it doesn't seem half as bad. Today I have to cover a lot of ground, so I'm taking the E4, heading towards Denmark for now. My destination for today is my base in Germany. I want to go home and have 1,000 kilometers ahead of me.
On a direct route to Denmark via the Øresund Bridge
I have been to Stockholm many times, so I drive past the beautiful city. I have decided to cross over to Denmark via the Øresund Bridge. The ferry trip to Denmark, from Helsingborg to Helsingør, would offer a welcome break from the road, but I can get there a little faster via the Øresund Bridge.
Stormy journey through Denmark on the way to the ferry
I'm just passing through Denmark; I've already covered most of the distance. It's only 160 kilometers from the Øresund Bridge to Rødby, and I don't want to refuel until I reach Germany, but this idea turns out to be a big mistake. I calculated that if I drove quickly, I could make a precision landing and drive straight onto the ferry without waiting. The Scandlines ferries run 45 times a day and only take 45 minutes for the 21-kilometer crossing.
It's typical for Denmark to have strong winds, and I felt a bit like I was riding a moving phone booth. The Road Glide ST isn't exactly an aerodynamic marvel, and with its 105 hp, it struggles against the strong winds that sweep across the country. The closer I get to the sea, the stormier it gets. I should have stopped at the last gas station.
A Dutch rescuer in Denmark
You can guess what happened! Two kilometers before the ferry, I broke down on the E4 due to a lack of fuel, which was a bummer. I could almost see the ferry terminal, so now I had a real problem. There was hardly any traffic on the road, so I immediately flagged down the first car I saw, a young couple from France who were on their way to the ferry and didn't have time for me. Then the next car came along, and I stood on the two-lane road waving again, hoping he would stop.
The car stopped and a young guy was sitting inside. He immediately invited me into the car and off we went. Job told me that there was a gas station in Rødby Sogn, just 1.5 kilometers from where I had broken down. I left the Road Glide there with its hazard lights on and set off with him. Job is from the Netherlands and works on the new Fehmarn Belt Tunnel.
A lucky coincidence and a helpful rescuer
It was pure coincidence, because Job had to go back to his accommodation because he had forgotten his key in the office. He picked up two empty bottles from the office and drove me to the gas station. He had to go back anyway and offered to give me a ride. You have to be really lucky to have someone like that. Job is a really cool guy. He quickly filled up the tank and then drove me back to the Road Glide. Thanks again, Job. Helping me out like that in that situation was really kind of you.
The Road Glide starts right up again, the sun is slowly setting, but now it's time to head back to the gas station in Rødby Sogn, this time together with the Road Glide ST. I filled up with a liter earlier on the E4, and at the gas station I fill up with another 22.33 liters of gas. Today, I'm not taking any chances.
Returning home after an adventure
Now it's on to the ferry that will take me to Puttgarden on the island of Fehmarn. I don't have to wait long and can take the next ferry. From the island of Fehmarn, I continue toward home, a route that has its own charm in the dark. With a full moon shining through the forests near us, it means I have to be especially careful of wildlife crossing the road. After 1,000 kilometers and plenty of excitement, I arrive home safe and sound.
Conclusion: This trip was more than just a tour; it was another one of my adventures that I was able to experience. I was only away for 10 days and was able to tick off an important item on my bucket list on this trip! Now that it's getting quiet around me late at night without the Milwaukee-Eight engine in the background, I'm letting this feeling of accomplishment sink in before the next chapter of my Travel begins.
Text and image credits: Harleysite Volker Wolf
Bucket List – Discovering the Lofoten Islands on the Road Glide ST – Part 4
Bucket List – The Lofoten Islands in Norway Part 3
Bucket List – Trondheim – Arctic Circle – Lofoten Part 2
