Cuba – In the footsteps of Che Guevara
What do a Harley-Davidson and a cigar from Cuba in common?
Both are absolutely outstanding products! Now it is undisputed that you can enjoy both almost anywhere in the world. But it's a real challenge if you want to enjoy both pleasures at the same time on the largest Caribbean island. Why? Because, on the one hand, it requires sufficient driving skills and, on the other hand, it requires strong nerves. However, the reward is a special kind of experience that cannot be compared to European touring experiences. As a big lover of the two luxury products mentioned and despite all common prejudices, I wanted to get a personal picture of the country and its people.
To collect these special impressions that are worth describing for potential imitators. For this reason, I contacted Ernesto, the youngest son of the Cuban folk hero Che Guevara , and joined an international group of like-minded people. Ernesto recognized the signs of political change early on and, as a great lover of the traditional American motorcycle brand, purchased numerous models.
These now help to bring the experiences of a fascinated biker closer to enthusiasts from all parts of the world. With a small staff of committed employees, he manages to build a professionally functioning organization that is able to provide every biker with unforgettable experiences. Although it can't eliminate some negative prejudices, if you expect European conditions, you're in the wrong place here anyway. Road safety-related standards, which are the norm here, hardly exist in Cuba.
If so, no one there follows them anyway. The further you get from Havana, the more problematic the road conditions become. This may still be manageable to a certain extent for drivers, but for Harley riders, a second loss of attention can have fatal consequences. And so the stress factor is enormous, especially if you make the mistake of not reaching your destination before dark. People outside of Havana did not yet want to afford the luxury of street lighting, road markings, guard rails, reflectors on the side of the road, signs indicating potholes or missing parts of the road. With the exception of the feeder highway from the airport to the holiday center of Varadero, which is important for tourists, testing the maximum permitted speed of 100 kilometers per hour is at least a risky undertaking. In any case, this tour promises to be exciting...
After a pleasant night in the famous Hotel Nacional De Cuba, a listed, magnificent building from the 1930s and a landmark of the city, all participants were chauffeured in two minibuses to the motorcycle depot just outside Havana. A daring group of 14 participants from five countries were distributed among the prepared Harleys. A wide range of Electra Glides, Road Kings, Street Glides, Sportster and Heritage Softails awaits us. I choose an Electra Glide, not only because of the large storage space, but because this model has already proven itself optimally on Route 66. Of course, the Berlin flag you brought with you should not be missing, which, when quickly fixed with a few cable ties, not only increases the attention factor. It's amazing how many “friends” you can meet in Cuba, especially when they're vacationing Berliners. An introductory lap to familiarize yourself with the bikes leads to Havana's most striking sights. We reach the historic center of La Habana Vieja via the famous ten-kilometer-long Malecón riverside road, where we take part in a city tour with the lovely Cuban woman Ina. She accompanies us on the entire tour and is a brilliant city guide. Not only can she say something about almost every house - there is no question that she cannot answer in detail. And so it happens in every city we visit on our route.
Characteristics
Name: Ernesto Rafael Guevara, called “Che” Guevara
Born: June 14, 1928 in Rosario, Argentina
Died: October 9, 1967
in La Higuera, Bolivia
Children: Aleida Guevara, Hilda Beatríz, Camilo Guevare, Celia Guevara, Ernesto Guevara
Che was a Marxist revolutionary, guerrilla leader, doctor and author. Along with Fidel Castro, he was the symbolic figure of the rebel army in the Cuban Revolution. He joined Castro's revolutionaries in December 1956. These pursued the goal of overthrowing the US-backed dictator Batista. Guevara was appointed by Castro as interior minister and then as head of the central bank. Capital flight and emigration were the consequences of his desired radical industrial changes. After several differences with Castro, Che resigned from all positions in 1964 and left the island nation. In the Congo and from 1966 in Bolivia he tried in vain to promote the revolution based on the Cuban model. His revolutionary army, consisting of only 44 fighters, fought constant skirmishes with the Bolivian army. On October 8, 1967, he was captured by government soldiers near La Hugueira and shot without trial just one day later.
Modern Havana is also on the program, as is a visit to “Revolution Square” and Che Guevara’s historic local headquarters in the “La Cabana” fortress. A delicious lunch in the highly recommended restaurant “Starbien” in the Vedado district – an absolute insider tip! – round off the day perfectly. Stocked up with a sufficient amount of good Cuban cigars, the next day begins with a heavy Caribbean rain shower, which only dampens the mood for a short time. As quickly as he came, he disappears again. Full of expectations, we head towards Cienfuegos, a longer stage of around 380 kilometers. Our guide and road captain Luisito drives in front, the rear guard consists of the second road captain Camillo and the luggage car in which Ina and Ernesto Guevara also ride. In the following hours on the relatively quiet A1 motorway heading east, everyone can have their first experience of slalom driving.
There is relatively little road damage compared to what we should expect. This luxury changes suddenly when we leave the highway at Jagüey Grande and drive on highway 116 via Playa Larga towards Playa Girón. This historic place, which has become known worldwide as the "Bay of Pigs", was a theater of war for three days in 1961 when around 1,300 Cuban exiles supported by the US secret service CIA landed there and were repelled by Fidel Castro with his troops and the local population.
The museum built there provides an impressive testimony to the events of that time. A briefly planned lunch in the middle of nowhere at “Don Alexis” then extends over several hours. This isn't planned, but it has something to do with the fact that two cultural worlds meet here and you have to get used to them first. On the other hand, we are impressed by the special warmth of our Cuban host, who, with the help of the entire family, does everything he can to offer his foreign guests something very special. However, the primitive and borderline hygienic design of an improvised hostel under a palm tree roof takes some getting used to.
But the longer you get used to the atmosphere and surroundings, the more curious you become about the food: fresh crocodile and turtle are on the menu. And you witness the preparation of the food - from cutting to professional preparation on the grill. After numerous tasty starters, the main course is theatrically presented by the host with the usual side dishes such as dark rice with black beans. Now the culinary adventure turns into a delicious treat. But this is also due to the fact that Cuban rum and cigars also stimulate the general mood. For all participants, it was a successful premiere of a food culture that we had never known before. Since we still have over 120 km to go to our destination, Trinidad, the city tour of Cienfuegos cannot take place as thoroughly as planned, much to Ina's chagrin.
It's already starting to get dark and there are still about 80 kilometers ahead of us. What follows not only challenges the driving skills of all participants, but you also have to have strong nerves to survive the next three hours unscathed. The increasingly deteriorating condition of the country roads and the simultaneous onset of rain make the journey a hellish ride - especially because the horse-drawn carriages, which are widespread in Cuba, also operate at night. Without lights or any reflectors, they suddenly appear in front of you and you can only hope that there is no oncoming traffic or potholes at that moment. Since there are no footpaths, residents also use the street as a sidewalk. All of this in absolute darkness. And to top it off, the oncoming cars always use their high beams to greet the Harley column in Cuban.
This means that visibility is zero for around three seconds. But ultimately everyone arrives in Trinidad unscathed. However, no one has any appetite for the planned dinner anymore. The bar is even more heavily frequented and the completely overwhelmed employee cannot mix the Pina Coladas, Mojitos or Cuba Libres nearly as quickly as would be necessary.
The next day begins with a relaxing, slightly hungover walk in the colonial city of Trinidad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an exemplary example of Spanish colonial architecture. Here Ina can once again impress with her immense specialist knowledge. The lovingly restored buildings, gardens and parks make this place a popular tourist destination. Of course, we also meet a lot of Berliners here who go crazy when they see the Berlin flag. How small the world is!
Around midday we set off for the island of Cayo Santa Maria. The drive through the “Topes de Collantes” National Park and then, shortly before the destination, on the spectacular 30 km long roadway that connects the mainland to the island is relaxing and pleasant as it was recently completed accordingly offers relatively comfortable road conditions. The fresh sea air also provides a welcome change from the very extreme exhaust emissions in the cities. In total, we complete a 200-kilometer ride to a five-star Cuban refuge that is preferred by Canadians.
The neighboring airport connects Cuba with Canada in a good three hour flight. The refreshing swim in the Atlantic and the subsequent enjoyment of a cigar compensate for the efforts of the past 600 kilometers and help to regenerate the tense limbs. After lunch the next day we continue via Remedios towards Santa Clara. In addition to the city tour of the historic “Villa de Remedios”, also a prime example of Spanish colonial architecture, the program includes a visit to the monument and tomb of Ernesto “Che” Guevara. The remains of the revered national hero and his 39 closest comrades-in-arms are buried here in a mausoleum. His efforts to transfer the revolution to Bolivia were taken into account in the interior design of the tomb by integrating the jungle atmosphere.
The monument and the neighboring museum, with many originals and personal items from Che's estate, bear witness to the eventful life of a man who still plays a prominent role in the minds of many Cubans. The next day's drive takes us to Varadero, a monstrous seaside resort to the west Pattern that is only slightly reminiscent of the Cuban way of life. Huge bed castles with European five-star standards are intended to make the place, with currently 15,000 beds, a center of tourism in Cuba. An almost unbelievable 30,000 beds are the target for the next twenty years! All participants agree that the stay should be kept to a minimum in order to be able to experience authentic Cuba again. This also includes my heart's desire:
As a self-confessed lover of Cuban cigars, I want to get to know the country's tobacco culture better. This takes place around 200 kilometers west of Havana near Pinar del Rio. There are the fertile agricultural lands that have given the Cuban cigar the global reputation it deserves since the 15th century. To the southwest of it, near San Luis, has been the home of Don Alejandro Robaina, a pioneer and legend of tobacco cultivation, since 1845.
The company is currently successfully managed by his grandson Hiroshi in the fifth generation, while his son Carlos runs the sales business in Havana. Don Alejandro's rather modest house, in which his grandson and his family still live today, resembles a special kind of pilgrimage site. Tourists from all over the world meet here every day to pay homage to the man who made the Robaina brand one of the best the world has made. The house is overflowing with pictures from old times showing Don Alejandro at work. Many years ago I had the great fortune of being able to personally meet Don Alejandro, who died in 2010, in Berlin. The friendly modesty of a large tobacco grower, who was the only one who had the express permission of Fidel Castro to sell his own brand, will not be forgotten. Back in Havana I happen to meet another great tobacco specialist who knows the history of cigar culture better than any Cuban. This refers to Maximilian Herzog, the “Cigar Pope” from Berlin, who is currently in Havana for the Partagas Convention.
Thanks to his recommendation, I manage to visit the Cohiba cigar factory in Havana. This brand is considered the best in the world and is simply identified as “the Havana”. The manufactory is located in a prime location, befitting its status, in a magnificent building from ancient times that is well worth seeing. Such an experience is of course a very special experience for a passionate cigar lover. In a final summary, this Harley tour turns out to be a strenuous but very rewarding adventure. The friendliness of the people and the many funny attempts to start a conversation make some of the inconveniences forgotten. Also unforgettable are the incredulous and astonished looks from the distinguished rural population, who may have seen a Harley for the first time in their lives, when suddenly a dozen motorcycles roar loudly through the towns.
The “Tour en moto” invites you to imitate. What remains of personal experiences is not only an unforgettable impression of a lovely country, but also the personal pride of having survived the adventurous tour unscathed.
Text & image credits: Copyright Herbert Wildanger / Fotolia
