Cuba – In the footsteps of Che Guevara
What do a Harley-Davidson and a cigar from Cuba Together? Both are absolutely outstanding products! Now, it's undisputed that you can enjoy both almost anywhere in the world. However, it's a real challenge if you want to enjoy both at the same time on the largest Caribbean island. Why? Because, on the one hand, you need to be a skilled driver and, on the other hand, you need strong nerves. However, the reward is a very special experience that cannot be compared to touring in Europe.
As a great lover of both of these luxury products and despite all the usual prejudices, I wanted to form my own impression of the country and its people.
To gather precisely those special impressions that are worth describing for potential imitators. For this reason, I got together with Ernesto, the youngest son of the Cuban national hero Che Guevara, and joined an international group of like-minded people. Ernesto recognized the signs of political change early on and, as a great lover of the traditional American motorcycle brand, purchased numerous models.
These now help to bring the experiences of a fascinated biker closer to enthusiasts from all over the world. With a small team of dedicated employees, he has managed to build a professionally functioning organization that is able to provide every biker with unforgettable experiences. Although he cannot eliminate some negative prejudices, if you expect European conditions, you are in the wrong place anyway. Road safety standards, which are the norm in our country, are virtually non-existent in Cuba.
If so, no one follows them there anyway. The further you travel from Havana, the more problematic the road conditions become. This may be manageable for car drivers to a certain extent, but for Harley riders, a second of inattention can have fatal consequences. This makes for an enormous amount of stress, especially if you make the mistake of not reaching your destination before nightfall. Outside Havana, the luxury of street lighting, road markings, guard rails, roadside reflectors, signs warning of potholes or missing sections of road is not yet available. With the exception of the feeder highway from the airport to the Varadero resort, which is important for tourists, testing the maximum speed limit of 100 kilometers per hour is a risky undertaking, to say the least. In any case, this tour promises to be exciting...
After a pleasant night at the famous Hotel Nacional De Cuba, a listed building from the 1930s and a landmark of the city, all participants were chauffeured in two minibuses to the motorcycle depot located just outside Havana. A daring group of 14 participants from five countries was divided among the prepared Harleys. A wide range of Electra Glides, Road Kings, Street Glides, Sportsters, and Heritage Softails awaited us. I opted for an Electra Glide, not only because of its large storage space, but also because this model had already proven itself on Route 66. Of course, the Berlin flag I brought with me is a must. Quickly attached with a few cable ties, it not only increases the attention factor. It's amazing how many „friends“ you can meet in Cuba with it, especially when they are Berliners on vacation. An introductory tour to familiarize ourselves with the bikes takes us to Havana's most striking sights. Via the famous ten-kilometer-long Malecón waterfront road, we reach the historic center of La Habana Vieja, where we take part in a city tour with the charming Cuban Ina. She accompanies us throughout the tour and is a brilliant city guide. Not only can she tell us something about almost every house, there is no question she cannot answer in detail. And so it is in every city we visit on our route.
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Name: Ernesto Rafael Guevara, known as „Che“ Guevara
Born: June 14, 1928, in Rosario, Argentina
Died: October 9, 1967
in La Higuera, Bolivia
Children: Aleida Guevara, Hilda Beatríz, Camilo Guevara, Celia Guevara, Ernesto Guevara
Che was a Marxist revolutionary, guerrilla leader, doctor, and author. Alongside Fidel Castro, he was the symbolic figurehead of the rebel army in the Cuban Revolution. He joined Castro's revolutionaries in December 1956. Their goal was to overthrow the US-backed dictator Batista. Guevara was appointed Minister of the Interior by Castro and subsequently head of the Central Bank. Capital flight and emigration were the consequences of his desired radical industrial changes. After several differences with Castro, Che resigned from all his posts in 1964 and left the island nation. In the Congo and, from 1966, in Bolivia, he tried in vain to advance the revolution based on the Cuban model. His revolutionary army, consisting of only 44 fighters, engaged in constant skirmishes with the Bolivian army. On October 8, 1967, he was captured by government soldiers near La Hugueira and shot without trial just one day later.
Modern Havana is on the agenda, as is a visit to Revolution Square and Che Guevara's historic headquarters in La Cabana Fortress. A delicious lunch at the highly recommended Starbien restaurant in the Vedado district – an absolute insider tip! – rounds off the day perfectly. Stocked up with a sufficient supply of good Cuban cigars, the next day begins with a heavy Caribbean rain shower, which only briefly dampens the mood. It disappears as quickly as it came. Full of anticipation, we head towards Cienfuegos, a longer stage of around 380 kilometers. Our guide and road captain Luisito leads the way, followed by the second road captain Camillo and the luggage truck, in which Ina and Ernesto Guevara are also traveling. In the following hours on the relatively quiet A1 highway heading east, everyone can try their hand at slalom riding for the first time.
There is relatively little damage to the roads – compared to what we can expect further on. This luxury changes abruptly when we leave the highway at Jagüey Grande and take Route 116 via Playa Larga towards Playa Girón. This historic place, known worldwide as the „Bay of Pigs,“ was the scene of three days of war in 1961, when around 1,300 Cuban exiles supported by the US Central Intelligence Agency landed there and were repelled by Fidel Castro with his troops and the local population.
The museum built there provides impressive testimony to the events of that time. A briefly planned lunch in the middle of nowhere at „Don Alexis“ then stretches over several hours. This was not planned, but it has to do with the fact that two cultural worlds collide here, which takes some getting used to. On the other hand, we are impressed by the special warmth of our Cuban host, who does everything he can, with the help of his entire family, to offer his foreign guests something very special. However, the primitive and, from a hygienic point of view, borderline design of an improvised hostel under a palm roof does take some getting used to.
But the longer you get used to the atmosphere and surroundings, the more curious you become about the food: fresh crocodile and turtle are on the menu. And you get to watch the food being prepared—from cutting up the meat to professional grilling. After numerous tasty appetizers, the host theatrically presents the main course with the usual side dishes such as dark rice with black beans. Now the culinary adventure develops into a delicious treat. But this is also due to the fact that Cuban rum and cigars further stimulate the general mood. For all participants, it is a successful premiere of a food culture that was previously unknown to us. As we still have over 120 km to go to reach our destination of Trinidad, the sightseeing tour of Cienfuegos cannot take place as extensively as planned, much to Ina's chagrin.
It is already beginning to get dark and we still have about 80 kilometers to go. What follows now not only challenges the driving skills of all participants, but also requires strong nerves to get through the next three hours unscathed. The increasingly poor condition of the country roads and the onset of rain make the journey a hellish ride – especially because the horse-drawn carriages that are widespread in Cuba are also used at night. Without lights or any reflectors, they suddenly appear in front of you and you can only hope that there is no oncoming traffic and no potholes at that moment. Since there are no sidewalks, the locals also use the road as a footpath. All this in complete darkness. And to top it all off, oncoming cars flash their high beams every time to greet the Harley convoy in true Cuban style.
This means that visibility is zero for around three seconds. But ultimately, everyone arrives in Trinidad unharmed. However, no one has any appetite for the planned dinner. The bar is frequented all the more intensely, and the completely overwhelmed staff cannot mix the piña coladas, mojitos, or Cuba Libres nearly as quickly as would now be necessary.
The next day begins with a relaxing, slightly hungover tour of the colonial city of Trinidad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a prime example of Spanish colonial architecture. Here, Ina once again impresses us with her immense knowledge. The lovingly restored buildings, gardens, and parks make this place a popular tourist destination. Of course, we also meet numerous Berliners here, who are absolutely thrilled at the sight of the Berlin flag. What a small world!
Around noon, we set off for the island of Cayo Santa Maria. The drive through the Topes de Collantes National Park and then, shortly before reaching our destination, along the spectacular 30 km causeway connecting the mainland to the island, is relaxing and pleasant, as it has only recently been completed and therefore offers relatively comfortable road conditions. The fresh sea air also provides a welcome change from the extreme exhaust fumes in the cities. In total, we cover a 200-kilometer journey to a Cuban five-star retreat that is particularly popular with Canadians.
The nearby airport connects Cuba with Canada in just over three hours. A refreshing dip in the Atlantic Ocean and a cigar afterwards make up for the exertions of the past 600 kilometers and help to regenerate tired limbs. After lunch the next day, the journey continues via Remedios towards Santa Clara. In addition to a city tour of the historic „Villa de Remedios,“ also a prime example of Spanish colonial architecture, the program includes a visit to the monument and tomb of Ernesto „Che“ Guevara. The remains of the revered national hero and his 39 closest comrades are buried here in a mausoleum. His efforts to bring the revolution to Bolivia are reflected in the interior design of the tomb, which incorporates a jungle atmosphere.
The monument and the adjacent museum, with many originals and personal items from Che's estate, bear witness to the eventful life of a man who still plays a prominent role in the memories of many Cubans. The next day's trip takes us to Varadero, a monstrous Western-style seaside resort that bears little resemblance to the Cuban way of life. Huge hotel complexes with European five-star standards are intended to turn the resort, which currently has 15,000 beds, into a center of tourism in Cuba. An almost unbelievable 30,000 beds are the target for the next twenty years! All participants agree that their stay should be kept to a minimum so that they can experience the authentic Cuba again. This also includes my heart's desire:
As a self-confessed lover of Cuban cigars, I wanted to learn more about the country's tobacco culture. This is located around 200 kilometers west of Havana near Pinar del Rio. This is where the fertile farmland is located that has given Cuban cigars the international reputation they deserve since the 15th century. Southwest of there, near San Luis, is the home of Don Alejandro Robaina, a pioneer and legend of tobacco cultivation, since 1845.
The company is currently successfully managed by his grandson Hiroshi, now in its fifth generation, while his son Carlos runs the sales business in Havana. Don Alejandro's rather modest house, where his grandson and his family still live today, resembles a special kind of pilgrimage site. Every day, tourists from all over the world gather here to pay homage to the man who made the Robaina brand one of the best in the world. The house is overflowing with pictures from the old days showing Don Alejandro at work. Many years ago, I had the great fortune to meet Don Alejandro, who passed away in 2010, in Berlin. The friendly modesty of a great tobacco grower, who was the only one to have Fidel Castro's express permission to distribute his own brand, remains unforgettable. Back in Havana, I happen to meet another great tobacco specialist who knows the history of cigar culture better than any Cuban. I am referring to Maximilian Herzog, the „cigar pope“ from Berlin, who is currently attending the Partagas Convention in Havana.
Thanks to his recommendation, I am able to visit the Cohiba cigar factory in Havana. This brand is considered the best in the world and is simply identified as „the Havana.“ The factory is located in a prime location, fittingly housed in a magnificent old building that is well worth seeing. Such an experience is, of course, a very special one for a passionate cigar lover. In conclusion, this Harley tour turns out to be a strenuous but very rewarding adventure. The friendliness of the people and their many amusing attempts to strike up a conversation make it easy to forget a few minor inconveniences. Also unforgettable are the incredulous and astonished looks on the faces of the predominantly rural population, who may have seen a Harley for the first time in their lives when a dozen motorcycles suddenly roar through the villages.
The „Motorcycle tour“ invites imitation. What remains of personal experiences is not only an unforgettable impression of a charming country, but also personal pride in having survived the adventurous tour unscathed.
Text & image credits: Copyright Herbert Wildanger / Fotolia
