With the Harleys to Istria with a stopover for the European Bike Week 2019 at Lake Faak
My wife Carmen, our friend Karle and I drove our Harleys to Slovenia and Croatia this year.
Our machines: Spyros Harley Slim - year 2014, 103 engine, 1690ccm;
Carmen's Harley Dyna Street Bob - year 2016, 103 engine 1690ccm;
Karles Harley Brake Out CVO - year 2017, 110 engine, 1801ccm;
On this year's route we wanted to gain some time so we could get south quickly. So we first roughed it for a few km on the highway.
Our route ran via Munich-Salzburg-Villach. Shortly before the Austrian border we refueled again. We then continued on to Slovenia through the Karawanken Tunnel.
There was now a kilometer-long queue of homebound traffic in the opposite lane. This time we were on the right side. After almost 540km we first stopped for coffee in Kranj and then looked for suitable accommodation.
Our first stop at a café along the main street turned out to be a 3 star hotel where we spent our first night. Top rooms, fair prices.
The staff was really friendly, we didn't have to drag our main luggage up to the first floor, but were allowed to leave it in a separate room.
After checking in, we went to the cozy terrace and enjoyed the delicious food, which consisted of grilled calamari, delicious side dishes such as grilled vegetables and salads. Of course there were a few beers that we deserved.
After a good night's sleep in very comfortable beds, we had a rich and delicious biker breakfast the next morning.
We then packed our luggage onto the planes and headed south.
The route led to Ljubljana, Adelsberg to Kopper.
With the sun on our side, we drove a bit further on the highway. We increasingly felt the warm southern air on our faces. It slowly became warmer and warmer.
It didn't take long and the heat felt like an oven. Now it was time to take off our warm jackets. We pulled into a parking lot and took off our warm clothes. Carmen (The Rocker Lady) decided to continue riding in just a t-shirt and vest.
After a short drive we left the highway towards the sea.
We went along the coast on the H6 to Izola.
When we arrived in Izola, we stopped at a café on the promenade and parked our bikes right in front of it. We took a seat and chilled in the comfortable seats of the café with a good latte macchiato and delicious cream slices.
Slowly the relaxation became noticeable. Lounging around and watching the goings-on on the street. Interesting people, hot girls, well-dressed for summer as well as strange characters filled the Catwalk on the Street.
-At some point Chullio also drove up. A coolly styled guy on his street bike and let his long-legged companion get off in a summery look. A long-haired, blonde Chika with a graceful stem.
After a goodbye kiss and elegant gestures, she went on her way and Chullio with dark glasses, a classy shirt and jeans started his machine and took off. Great performance. I leave out the rest in between!
At some point we had to leave our stands. We set off and got on our machines. We continued on the 111 along the coast to Umag.
Sometimes you pass restaurants that have a grill right on the street. Crispy suckling pigs rotate on the spit and invite you to enjoy a delicious meal. But unfortunately you can't always make a stop. Shit.
After a great ride through the great area and blue water in the distance, we stopped at Umag right by the sea. After the journey in the heat, the wonderful, blue sea enticed us to swim.
It didn't take much and I almost took off my clothes and jumped naked into the water.
– However, first we had to find a place to stay. Umag is a small town with a nice promenade at the harbor with its cafes and restaurants. Life pulsates with its locals, fishermen and tourists.
Here we started looking for suitable accommodation. Carmen, our “Check In Guide Specialist”, found a nice guesthouse near Umag with a fair price.
The apartment with two rooms was comfortably furnished and very clean. We were able to park our Harleys in the yard under fig and olive trees.
Our hostess welcomed us very friendly and immediately invited us to a Turkish coffee.
Beforehand she gave us a few freshly picked figs from her own tree. Delicious figs 😉
We drank delicious Turkish coffee on the terrace, which was surrounded by pomegranate, olive and fig trees.
Rosemary bushes exuded their intense scent, which gave us a Mediterranean flair. After a nice small talk we moved into our apartment. Afterwards we went straight back on the machines to explore the area a bit.
A few kilometers further we passed a campsite and drove to the beach. We lingered for a while and enjoyed the rest of the day by the sea and reflected on our trip. The beach took a lot of getting used to.
Couldn't believe that people spend their vacation on this beach. The huts were all painted a brown color and resembled a settlement. The smell of sewers was in the air.
So as a seaside resort, I could really imagine other places better. It was incomprehensible to me that holidaymakers felt comfortable in such an area.
We were slowly becoming hungry.
So we hopped on our planes and drove back to our headquarters. Freshly showered, made up and powdered, we set off and drove towards Umag.
We saw a barbecue restaurant set back from the highway. It was attractive due to its location, its lighting and gave a good impression. Because the parking lot was full, we assumed there was probably a good kitchen there!
So we turned off and rolled into the parking lot. Some guests' eyes turned to us and our machines. Well, every Harley rider knows this feeling. Every piston stroke becomes a great performance!
We sat down at a table in a nice place and waited expectantly for the waiter.
We ordered as much as we could. The menu consisted of so many delicacies that it was difficult for us to choose.
From pizzas, antipasti, grilled plates, fish, grilled vegetables, potato wedges, delicious salads and delicious desserts, everything was available. A bad feast.
We enjoyed the brilliant food and lingered in the pleasant atmosphere.
It was clear to us that we would definitely come here again. Well fed and with a full satchel, we went back to our accommodation.
It was still nice and warm when we climbed onto our bikes in just our t-shirts and vests and disappeared into the night with the roar of the Harley sound.
When we arrived at our accommodation, our host and her family sat outside and invited us for a glass of local wine. We enjoyed the friendly company together and left our second day relaxed.
At some point we went to bed. The beds were super comfortable, so we fell asleep with the balcony door open under the full moon with the chirping of crickets and the wonderful evening air.
The next morning we had fried eggs, cheese and bacon for breakfast.
We realized that our location wasn't that bad and decided to stay here for two nights.
We rode our Harleys through the country on the well-developed roads and enjoyed the beautiful area in the beautiful weather.
We drove to Novigrad and explored the town with its charming harbor. After a coffee in a café bar we drove on to Porec.
The route led across a strait. We drove over this on a dam-like road. That was so impressive. You feel like you are driving at water level with your view surrounded by water on the left and right.
You pass fruit and vegetable stalls on the streets. Olive oil and paprika are also offered to those driving by. And then there are the fat watermelons that would have to be transported on a moped under the most difficult circumstances.
Porec is an interesting and very lively city with an old town center.
There is a restaurant in a tower from bygone times, which extends over three floors.
A rustic wooden staircase takes you to the upper floor. From the top you have a wonderful view over Porec. Porec is worth a trip. At some point the sun got to us so much that we decided to drive towards Rovinj to find a suitable beach.
We went back to our machines and thundered off.
Somewhere we just turned left and actually came to a bathing beach. There was even a beach bar there. Great for hanging out. We parked our bikes within sight and went swimming.
In the evening we drove past a supermarket and bought something to eat. We cooked spaghetti. Our hostess gave us freshly boiled tomatoes, which she cooked into a sauce in a huge pot during the day.
The sauce I made spread all over the house. So we invited our nice hosts to dinner. And so we all sat together on the terrace again and spent a great evening with wine and stories. Chiwilly
The next day we set off again. We said goodbye to Maria and her warm family. She gave each of us a glass of homemade sugo and two bottles of white wine.
The hospitality of these people was so great that we will always be happy to stop at Maria's. Thank you again “quala” and “Naswiden”. On the 75 we drove further south via Porec' without potato salad to Pula.
Banjole was supposed to be our last home in Istria.
Below Pula we looked again for suitable accommodation. We drove around the area a bit. Driving in this beautiful area was really fun. We drove partly directly along the water and passed bathing bays where we wanted to stop again.
A beer was out of the question at that time, but we enjoyed a delicious latte macchiato and ate the infamous cream slice. Not weighed to approx. 125g like ours. No, here you get a piece of cream slices weighing approx. 300g. So a real biker cut. 😉
We parked the bikes directly in front with a view of the street. Theater was popular again.
We actually had our place in Banjole to thank for our friendly waitress in Premantura, who had recommended it to us.
A sweet waitress with a friendly smile greeted us warmly and we started talking.
Yes, yes, I know: she just wanted our money... Anyone who thinks like that should stay at home. It's not for pessimists!
We drove to the accommodation in question and were promptly pleasantly surprised.
We were offered a complete house with parking space for the machines in the courtyard, that's all you need! From here we explored the rest of Istria along the coast and drove to the various places with their bays, harbors and beaches every day.
In the evening we drove to a grill restaurant that a local had recommended to us. The recommendation turned out to be brilliant. We also ate excellently and inexpensively there.
The next day we visited Pula. The city is a bit bigger than the other towns we visited. We parked our machines near the center and went for breakfast.
We walked above the market, through the fish halls, past the many stalls and straight into the center. We found a cafe that we liked.
We waited there for an eternity until we decided to move around to signal to the only and overwhelmed waiter in the café that new customers were there.
Well, at some point we were able to place our order. There was a lot to see here too.
Strengthened, we made our way to the infamous arena, the amphitheater. The most famous and most important sight in Pula. A bulwark of bygone times.
Everything around is full of tourists and we are in between.
At some point we also passed the Triumphal Arch, the golden gate from 29th-27th BC. Built by a family named Sergei. It's quite impressive!
Northeast of the hill in the middle of the city is a Roman theater. Passing there you get to the fort. A fortress from the 1630s. If you climb up the observation tower, you have a gigantic panoramic view of Pula. Cannons decorate the large square around it and give the impression of brutal eras used to protect the city.
So we spent the rest of our days in our sweet little house with a hearty breakfast in the company of Blacky and Miezi. Our trips led through the great area to beaches where we spent at least half a day swimming.
In the evenings, for a change, we also had something home-cooked and enjoyed the evenings on our cozy terrace and under the pavilion with a glass of wine and a few beers by candlelight. Chiwilly
After a week in Istria we went via Opatija to Carinthia and Villach Faaker See to the European Bike Week.
In Opatija we had another coffee on the promenade and enjoyed the remaining rays of sunshine. Shortly afterwards it was time to get on the machines and get out of here quickly.
The air became cooler and the sky became increasingly dark. The gray clouds gathered over the sea and followed us to the highway. We reached the toll booth in light rain.
There we decided to put on our rain gear. From then on we headed north towards Villach in the pouring rain. Unfortunately, it wasn't just the rain that was our companion, the annoying traffic jam also extended our journey in the rain. With constant stop and go, it was tough and rainy and I reached our destination.
Here's an appeal to all drivers, you should write this on the petition as normal! Or to the ADAC. It is incomprehensible not to allow motorcyclists to drive between stationary cars in traffic jams in the heat or rain. The conditions in summer when the sun hits the helmet are the worst for motorcyclists and an additional burden in traffic.
What is the logic behind not allowing motorcyclists to pass? It's easy for the driver because he's sitting in his air-conditioned vehicle.
This kind of stubborn behavior is familiar from days gone by and doesn't belong in today's world!
Understanding drivers who make room deserve a thank you. I thanked him with a hand greeting. A big thank you to everyone who behaves so loyally. Of course, such actions should only be carried out at walking pace!
We reached the Karawanken Tunnel in the pouring rain and enjoyed the warmth in the tunnel for the first time. Finally we reached our destination.
We were warmly welcomed again in our main house in Ledenitzen. After checking in, we had a delicious beer with our friends Manne and Tina, who had traveled from Fulda. Of course, the delicious food from the Rausch kitchen couldn't be missed. After a day like this, the portions can't be big enough.
The next three days were dominated by rain, so the exhibitors' mood was a bit low.
Nevertheless, everything was well attended. The bikers didn't miss out on their annual fun. The days before were sunny, so many people were able to go on their trips.
On the third day we had to say goodbye to our companion Karle. Karle drove home from Bregenz with his friend Udo, who he met there.
We drove our last stage with Manne and Tina from Fulda. We went to Rijeka, Krk, Cres and on to Mali Losinj.
It was still raining on the day of departure. When we arrived back in Opatija, we looked for a nice café and enjoyed another delicious latte macchiato. At the same time, Carmen looked for accommodation for us and found a guesthouse with really nice and polite people.
The host first took us to his bar, where we were invited for a glass of wine.
The white wine won the gold medal last year and tasted excellent.
Of course there was also a homemade slibowitz and a grappa from the region. Maybe he lubricated it!
After moving into our rooms with a sea view, we made ourselves a snack with delicious things that we had previously bought in a supermarket.
Finally end of work.
We briefly reflected on this day and looked forward to tomorrow. The sun's rays sparkled into the room through the cracks in the shutters and woke us up.
After a good morning shower and a good breakfast, we continued our journey to the ferry towards Cres.
The crossing in sunshine really put us in a good mood again. When we arrived on the island of Cres, we drove straight to the town of Cres and strolled a bit through the cute old town and along the harbor.
The constantly fragrant smells of Croatian cuisine wafting around our noses accelerated our appetite. So we didn't have to wait long and looked for a suitable restaurant to satisfy our hunger. Yummy, grilled octopus, pizzas, pasta dishes and delicious as always!
After we were strengthened and full again, we roamed around a bit
When we passed our restaurant again, the waiter called out to us.
We looked at each other and couldn't understand his gestures until he disappeared into the restaurant and came to us with a bag. Manne had left all his things there, including his ID, wallet and keys.
This also showed how honest these people are. Manne was happy and we were very impressed.
Our journey then continued relaxed.
The routes on the islands are a dream for every motorcyclist. Stone walls erected by hand at a height of approx. 1m are towered along the road, protecting animals and travelers from each other. Every now and then you pass old neglected stone huts that still exude their charm.
An Eldorado also for cyclists, some of whom you meet here.
The landscape not only changes the course of the road from long straights to winding passages, but also the landscape past rocky formations into bushy regions and past olive, fig or other trees such as spruce. A great fauna. Sheep can also be seen occasionally grazing in the enclosed gardens under olive trees.
Here you have to enjoy the area. The diversity of this idyllic landscape is fun to traverse comfortably on a Harley. Here you should be considerate and stick to the speed instructions. Even if you are sometimes overtaken by the locals.
If the sign says 40km, then you should stick to 40km.
To be honest, I'm not one of the most correct people when it comes to speed limits, but you should stick to them here. On these slippery roads, the braking distance, if necessary, is quite long.
An animal suddenly jumping out or a vehicle driving out of a side street may be noticed in time, but at the increased speed it is no longer enough to stop in time!
On the hills you see the beautiful blue sea and long to get there as quickly as possible. From a distance you can see some of the route and enjoy driving in this great landscape. “Oh, that’s exciting!”
Our journey led across the island to Mali Losinj. There we had a guesthouse with Jasna for the rest of the week. We spent the days relaxing, sunbathing, choosing a few beaches and hanging out until the evening. We then went to the local restaurants for a delicious meal.
We also met our friends Andreas and Angelika from Chiemsee who were lying in a bay with their boat. With you and your friends we visited a local restaurant that offers delicious Croatian cuisine with a great garden and lots of utensils.
We spent lovely days in great bays and beautiful towns with their idyllic harbors. And just like that, it was that time again.
These days also passed quickly and so we began our journey home.
This time via Krk to Rijeka and then with a stopover in Ledenitzen.
The weather held up, so we headed home with our machines the next day.
Our tour initially went towards Salzburg. In Germany we left the motorway near Rosenheim and avoided the traffic jam with a stopover at friends' houses.
I hope you enjoyed my story about Istria and gave you some inspiration.
It greets you
Spyro
Spyridon Maaß
from Schwarzenberg near Wangen im Allgäu
Croatian:
Dobredan- good day
quala- thank you
Naswiden- goodbye
Ugnotowetsche- nice evening
Chiwilly- cheers
