4620 km with the Harley through Greece
A tour report by Spyridon Maaß from Schwarzenberg in Allgäu
My wife Carmen, our friends Taso and Roussa and I made our way to Greece for 2 ½ weeks this year.
Our bikes: my Harley Slim year 2014, 103 engine, 1690cc; Carmen's Harley Dyna Street Bob year 2016, 103 engine 1690cc; Taso's Harley Road King year 2017, 107 engine, 1745cc Milwaukee-Eight
Our route initially ran in the rain as far as St. Bernardino. Then, after our first refueling stop and a coffee, we continued dry and sunny to Ravenna in Italy.
We spent the night there in a former farmhouse that has been lovingly converted into a hotel. The hosts are so friendly and accommodating that you want to stay longer.
The complete ambience with a beautifully landscaped garden with pool also invites you to stay longer.
The next day, after a hearty breakfast outside under the morning sun with delicious coffee, freshly scrambled eggs and ham as well as tasty side dishes, we continued on to the ferry to Ancona. After loading the motorcycles onto the ferry, we first went to bed to stow our belongings.
Afterwards, we all met up on the deck restaurant for a meal. Here, too, you quickly come into contact with other bikers and share your experiences. Just like with an Italian couple who were on their way to Greece.
After arriving in Igoumenitsa, we first drove into Igoumenitsa and chose one of the restaurants located on the road parallel to the sea and stopped off there. After a Greek mocha and some delicious sweets, we discussed the rest of our route and set off into the unknown.
We made a few stops to stare, take photos, refuel and drink coffee on our way to the east coast via Ioannina, Siatista and on to Veria-Meliki. Right at the start, we were greeted by a Greek tortoise at the side of the road. So caution is advised.
A few kilometers further on, we came across a sheer mass of goats crossing the road, so we first stopped to let the 200 or so animals pass with their shepherd and the shepherd's dogs. The shepherd waved thank you to us at the end.
The journey through the interior of the country is very varied and exciting the whole time. You pass huge, wide and empty riverbeds, which turn into raging torrents in winter. Different mountain formations make for a very interesting and varied journey to the next destination.
We made our first stop with an overnight stay in Ioannina at Roussa's mum's house. There we were warmly welcomed and given a delicious homemade mocha. After a relaxing break, we took a look at the old, legendary city with its legendary past.
You can enjoy the wonderful view of the mountains from the cafés right by the lake and let your mind wander. Ioannina is situated on a beautiful lake. A mountain range runs opposite.
There is a great restaurant at the top, from where you can enjoy a wonderful view of the city of Ioannina. In the evening, the view is of course dedicated to romantics. In the evening, Greece Mum served delicious Greek cuisine.
We banged away until the satchel was taut. Of course, we finished off with a raki.
The next day, after a hearty and lovingly prepared breakfast at Roussa's mother's, we drove on via Siatista to Veria-Meliki for our second stop. Meliki is a small, inconspicuous village with a few nice tavernas, which only reveal their charm in the evening light.
A beautifully illuminated church in the center of the village underlines the idyllic atmosphere of Meliki. Taso is known there like a colorful dog. But so is he in Wangen im Allgäu with his Greek restaurant. ☺ Some of his friends also run tavernas there, where people are always welcome.
A cozy get-together with old friends makes the heart beat faster. It's just so cozy in the center of Meliki. We were immediately captivated by a town festival with Greek dancing on the first evening. All the people were so cheerful and relaxed.
From Meliki, we went on a day trip to Makrojali for a swim the next day. We parked our bikes right in front of the beach. Right next to it is an inviting beach restaurant with a beautifully landscaped garden. We took our place directly on the beach in front of it and relaxed on the loungers.
A friendly waiter immediately brought us fresh, cool water to drink without being asked and took our order. To our surprise, the loungers cost nothing. You only have to order something to drink.
This will be difficult for some Swabians when there is free water. When we arrived back in Meliki in the evening, Taso's mother and sister didn't miss a beat and conjured up some delicious Greek cuisine for us. Thank goodness we don't live here, otherwise we would turn into a barrel.
The next day, after a proper pub crawl with a delicious meal in Meliki, we set off on our third day trip, which first took us to Thessaloniki and then on to Chalkidiki for a swim. The route there is also very nice, a great area with beautiful houses along the road.
Suddenly, after a bend or two, a glimmer of green appears. Fantastic bays stretch out before us in the valley, some of which sparkle in emerald green and you can only enjoy the breathtaking view. Once there, you are overwhelmed by the beautiful beaches.
Well-maintained roads take you along the coast and across the country. Apart from around Thessaloniki, the roads are well developed. It is only around Thessaloniki that one or the other vehicle is really shaken up. The roads there are in absolute need of repair.
On the fourth day, after a hearty breakfast and motherly care from Taso's mother and sister Eleni, our journey continued. We set off from Veria-Meliki further south towards Katerini, Larisa, Volos, past Athens to Corinth, Monemvasia, Areopoli, Kalamata, Pylos, Kalo Nero, Pirgos, Amaliada, Patras, Prevesa, Lefkada, Syvota and back to Igoumenitsa.
At the height of Athens, the metropolis rises up in its breathtaking sea of lights at night and invites you to do anything you can think of.
A very obliging female petrol station attendant tells us where we can stay for the night. Our route remains breathtaking. At night, from a distance, we can see the twinkling lights of Corinth getting closer and closer.
Once there, we check into our hotel right in the city center. After we have taken care of our luggage and freshened up, the polite porter tells us which direction to take to satisfy our hunger in one of the restaurants right on the beach.
It's 11 pm when we order our food. The Caesar salad alone is on a scale that would make German restaurateurs think twice about their profits. We round off the evening with a Greek beer.
The next day, our journey continues to Monemvasia. On the way, it happens that roads lead through narrow village alleyways. As if out of the blue, we burst from an alley directly into the village center. In one village, we went straight around the church and then out of the village again. There is a watering hole behind the church.
There, visitors can drink the delicious and fresh mountain water and fill their bottles if necessary. This is the Swabian paradise. Free water. Let's continue.
Monemvasia is a small island with very interesting sights. On Monemvasia stands the holy Sofia. A small church surrounded by small alleys with cozy restaurants, taverns, some hotels and stores for tourism. In some locations you have a great view of the open sea from the lovingly laid out terrace.
All the tavernas are tastefully decorated and completely different from the others.
After this beautiful stop, our route takes us through areas that change from stony, barren mountain ranges to green plantations with olive, lime, fig and other fruit trees.
You get countless impressions of the variety of vegetation and animals that live there and that you encounter along the way. The roads lead through small villages past sweet cafés, tavernas and restaurants that invite you to enjoy a delicious coffee or lunch. Friendly Greeks wave to us from time to time. The hospitality is exemplary and warm.
The Greek would like to know where you are coming from and where you are going. They wish you a safe journey and all the best for the trip. During the journey through larger cities, a perfume scent sometimes wafts through your nose and you immediately look out for where this beguiling fragrance comes from.
Is it Athena with her call? But our nose also picks up scents of herbs, flowers, tar, factories, the sea and fish, even carcasses. And again, in remote places in the mountains, you come across nice tavernas with a fantastic view.
Sometimes a long straight road leads towards the horizon. At the top, you can see a familiar play of colors between the rocks along the road. Once again, the shimmering green of a giant emerald beckons.
It is the sea that shines so blue-green and beckons us to swim. Away from the coast and back inland, our route takes us through an avenue that seems to lead into infinity. After a glance at the speedometer, it is an estimated 9 km dead straight.
The area is so diverse, you pass mountains of various shapes, some of which resemble a canyon. Dried-out riverbeds which probably develop into torrents during the winter months when the snow melts and completely fill the riverbed.
Some of the roads end in the mountains and can be found as a Promillenweg. Caution is advised on some hairpin bends, where there may be gravel stones and potholes that make driving dangerous.
Then again manageable curves whose course you can see up to an estimated 4km and can drive through accordingly constantly.
After a long drive along the coast of Corinth Monemvasia, Mavrothavni, Kardamil Kalamata, Pylos, Kalo Nero, Pirgos and Patras, where we have a delicious coffee and cake, we leave the Peloponnese and drive over the huge white bridge to the mainland of Greece.
You get goosebumps during the crossing, this monument is so impressive. From there we continue to Messolonghi along the coast to Preveza.
Once we arrive in Preveza, we check into our hotel and take a look around this beautiful little town right by the sea. There are countless restaurants, cafés, tavernas and shops here. Stores upon stores to marvel at. From here, we will spend the rest of our vacation swimming and going on day trips.
In the evening, of course, we go out for a delicious meal as usual and enjoy an ouzo for our best friends between beers. The day after next, we treat ourselves to a trip to the nearby island of Lefkas. On the green island of Lefkas, you get the impression that you're partly in Canada.
Conifers in light green color smell sweetly of the honey scent. Every 400m you pass beekeepers selling their honey directly on the road. Alternately, the nose catches the scent of thyme, which makes the palate irrevocably simulate a delicious steak. Lavender clouds the olfactory bulb in a spa oasis reminiscent of massage and relaxation.
And once again this emerald sparkles from below, shining all the way to the summit. The closer you get to the cliffs, the more the view of the beautiful sea opens up. Sometimes you get the impression of the Caribbean. Once you reach the bottom, you can't imagine anything more beautiful.
Everywhere the Greeks provide visitors with beach loungers free of charge. As mentioned, you have to order something to drink in return. The Greek does not make money from this exemplary gesture, but from the orders. As you can see, there is another way!!!
Unfortunately also at Katsiki Beach on Lefkas! It gets expensive there. Apart from swimming on the beautiful beach, there's not much to do there. But the view is gigantic.
Hospitality: Despite the economic situation and the high unemployment rate, the Greeks welcome you warmly. The Greeks strive to do their best despite everything. In every coffee shop, taverna or restaurant, guests are always served a free bottle of water.
Traffic: 50 does not mean driving 50 on Greek roads. There you drive 80, but in the event of a collision you should behave as if you were driving 50. You adapt your speed to the traffic. Greeks are also the most patient road users on the roads. Greeks drive on the far right so that you can see ahead when overtaking.
Many foreign road users could take this as an example.
You don't see anything like this in Germany, where people tend to lean to the left and don't give others an advantage. Absolute caution is required on traffic circles!
The road user entering the traffic circle has right of way. The driver on the traffic circle must stop. But even there, the Greek driver makes sure that nothing happens. Nevertheless, you should pay attention to this!
On the A2 from Ioannina in the direction of Igoumenitsa, you pass an area from which you have an impressive view of a huge valley from above. This area is also said to be a paradise for hikers and adventurers. If time permits, there are also plenty of sights to see.
The places mentioned were part of our route and again only represent a part of this beautiful country. There are countless other routes which are certainly just as beautiful and enchanting.
You don't need to worry about staying overnight in the low season. There are plenty of offers everywhere.
We will be traveling to Greece again. Our distance from Wangen im Allgäu to Greece and back is 4620km without the ferry.
Summary: Greece is a dream country for bikers. Culinary diversity and very hospitable. Always worth a trip. And if you're an old hand, you'll know that once you get to Italy, things get aggressive and chaotic again.
The Italians burn with temperament. A courtship behavior that ceremonially expresses its potency. But it's also beautiful in Italy.
I hope my story has inspired you to travel around beautiful Greece on your own motorcycle.
Greetings to you
Spyro - Spyridon Maaß from Schwarzenberg im Allgäu near Wangen im Allgäu
Trip to Greece - Text and photo credits: Spyridon Maaß
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